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Dispatch 4 : Camp 1 to Camp 2 Print E-mail
Written by Eric Kapitulik   
Tuesday, 15 July 2008
nanga_parbat_0847_th.jpgCamp 1 to Camp 2: "Ooooohhhhh Fudge.  But I didn't say fudge.  I said the queen mother of all swear words." - Ralphie, "A Christmas Story"

Chris left Camp 1 at approximately 4:15 AM with the rest of the team following in trace forty-five minutes later.  It was quickly apparent that this was not going to be an "average" day in the mountains.  Due to the warm weather and afternoon rain showers followed by freezing temperatures in the Diamar Valley and lower elevations of Nanga Parbat, our day would be spent climbing almost twenty five hundred feet of vertical ice.

nanga_parbat_0516_th.jpgAfter thirty minutes of climbing on already steep ice, we reached the fixed lines.  The first three hundred meters were horrible, but as we would soon find out, compared to the final six hundred, they were a pleasure.  The first three hundred meters were completed in around three hours, the final six hundred in six hours.  As the nuns of St. Joseph Grammar School will be quick to attest, I am no mathematician, but that is a rate of movement of one hundred meters per hour (or the length of a football field every hour and fifteen minutes).  Fuuuuudge! 

nanga_parbat_0518_th.jpgDue to the almost vertical ice, the entire six hours were spent on the two little front points of our crampons.  Hello, Mr. Calf Muscle.  I would pump my legs (a la NFL Hall of Fame running back, Jim Brown) for ten steps and then collapse forward onto my ice axe and gulp huge breaths of oxygen-depleted air.  I would however, in my own sick way, gain strength from the misery I saw on my very strong teammates' faces as I looked between my legs--down the vertical ice face at their very similar body positions.  At least I wasn't the only one feeling the way I was!  With the temperature rising and rocks starting to cascade down amongst us, Chris decided that we should tie off the group gear that we each carried on the fixed lines and begin to rappel back down to Camp 1.

nanga_parbat_0864_th.jpgWe reached Camp 1 after another two hours of dodging falling rocks (sometimes successfully, sometimes not so successfully-Nelson Laur) and after a quick team meeting, the entire team (minus Anna) descended another hour and half to Base Camp and our much needed showers, snacks and dinner.  And Johnny Cash. 

Eric Kapitulik

 
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