Hello Everyone following our Makalu climb.
We have a system set up now at BC to get some dispatches out. We all know that it is important to be in touch and let all know what we are up to on this beautiful mountain of Makalu, The Black One.
With my broken dispatch I wanted to get across the beauty of this Makalu/Barun National Park. Shipton made it through to the Barun River valley in 1952, then came the Americans in 1954 with the French making the first ascent in 1955 of the North Face. Trekkers and climbers have been enjoying this area ever since. Our trek in brought us through the dry, dusty, red earth land of Num, then turning into the moist, lush tropical land of Seduwa and on into the flowering Rhododendrons before and after the roughed Shipton La.
Descending into the Barun Valley the terrain changed to Yosemite Valley,
Baffin Island type walls of granite, laced with vertical ice runs, with
6,000 meter mountains high above. All this brought us to Makalu South
BC, the original camp sites for the early expeditions. For us, we need
our BC to be more near our South Face route. So we moved one more day
across the valley to the base of the south face.
We didn't rest after finding a flat place to call BC.
The next day we approached the beginning of our climb by using the 1954
route, we established our ABC at 5,410 meters after finding a route
through the first ice tongue. Our BC is all set up now. Ram and Junger
are doing a great job with setting up our kitchen, coms and dinning
tents.
We had our first showers after 10 days on the trail.
Feeling good now, with clear mornings, sun being warm with a cool breeze
allowing us to rest, eat well and be happy with our little team. In the
afternoons the storm clouds develop, taking away the warmth but helping
us to get ready for the severe weather change when the real climbing
begins.
Chris and I will head back up after our Puja ceremony.
Our goal is to climb up to ABC with 5 days of food and gear towards the
south face and the south col. With this recon we should be able to view
the clear line that we want to climb to the 8000 meter high point on the
Southeast Ridge. It will be thrilling to touch new rock and ice on this
face that has no past human history. From the 8,000 meter mark, the
route follows the Japanese route to the summit. We know that this part
of the climb will be another huge crux, having a 100 meter rock step
guarding the main summit of 8,485 meters. We can only prepare now for
what we are adventuring into by positive thoughts, good energy between
Chris and I as partners into the unknown place on this earth and sending
out love to everyone who is interested in following us along this
journey.
So for now, letting you know that we are healthy, happy
and motivated to see what is around the next corner on Makalu.
I'll
write again after our journey to the South Col. I know that Ashley,
Theo and Giannina will be warm, safe and sound in BC while we are
climbing. They will be sending out more dispatches as well.
Good
thoughts to everyone from Makalu BC.
Cheers,
Marty
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