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Cho Oyu 1999
In the Fall of 1999, Chris Warner and Brad Johnson set out
to climb Cho Oyu, the sixth tallest peak in the
world. The weather that season was horrible. Chris and Brad were among the few
people that summited. And at least three people were caught in avalanches:
including Chris. More
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Cho Oyu Summit [ Play Video ]
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Everest 2000
In 2000, Chris Warner helped guide an expedition, led by
Russell Brice, on the North Ridge of Everest. Although the team didn't summit,
it was a great Everest experience: from rescues and intrigue, to bitter cold
nights and jet stream winds. And just when things couldn't get worse, a lake
formed on the trail to Base Camp, requiring the building of a raft at 20,000
feet. More
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Everest 2001
In 2001, Chris Warner was back on Everest, guiding the North
Ridge. On May 23 the team summited. Evelyne Binsack was the first Swiss woman
to summit Everest. Ellen Miller was the first American woman to summit Everest
from the North Ridge (a year later becoming the first American woman to summit
Everest from the North and South). Naoki Ishikowa reached the "three
poles" that year. Jaime Vinals climbed to his Seventh Summit. And Marco
Siffredi made the first complete snow board descent of Everest. But in the end
this expedition may best be remembered for the amazing rescue that unfolded
following the last climbers and guides reaching the summit. More
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Everest 2001. Hollow victory?
[ Play Video ]
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Shishma Pangma 2001
In the fall of 1999, Chris Warner and Brad Johnson trekked
to base camp on the south side of Shisha Pangma, the world's 13 tallest peak.
On the night they arrived a Sherpa from another expedition raced into their
tent. A massive avalanche had killed two American climbers: Alex Lowe and David
Bridges.
Chris and Brad, along with most of the climbers in BC, hiked
to the base of the mountain to help the surviving team mates. The storms that
battered the Himalaya that week proved
especially fatal. At least 17 climbers were killed on various peaks.
With the threat of avalanches too great, the 1999 expedition
was abandoned.
Chris returned, alone, in 2001. In a non-stop 34 hour push
he climbed up and down the 7000 foot face.
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Shishma Pangma Summit.
1st American Solo.
[ Play Video ]
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K2 2002
This expedition was ill-fated, perhaps from the beginning.
We were a group of 11 climbers, all sharing a
permit, and brought together by one of the most experienced of
modern day expedition organizers: Henry Todd. But in reality we
weren't there so much to climb together as to just summit. This
paradox, combined with horrible weather and the tragedies that be-fell
our neighboring teams, combined to defeat us. In the end, not a single
climber summited either K2 or Broad Peak
that season. Two climbers lost their lives trying.
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Lhotse 2004
On April 5th, 2004 Chris Warner departed on a three-month
journey to the summits of two 8000-meter peaks: Lhotse and Nanga
Parbat. There are 14 mountains in the world that rise above the
magic 8000-meter (26,240 ft) mark. 10 of the peaks are located in the Himalaya
Mountains of Nepal, Tibet
and Pakistan and 4 are
located in the Karakorum Range of Pakistan and China. To date, just 11 climbers
have summited all of these peaks.
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Nanga Parbat 2004
In 2004, after summiting Lhotse (during which Chris suffered
frost damage to his toes and fingers), he headed from Nepal to Pakistan
to attempt Nanga Parbat.
As the ninth highest peak in the world, Nanga
Parbat, 8125m/ 26,658 ft., is considered one of the most dangerous
and best-guarded summits in the world. Chris attempted the Kinshoffer Route that ascends the Diamir
Face. Chris worked with a German team to establish the route and pushed to the
summit in mid June. Prior to 2004, approximately 200 people had summited Nanga Parbat.
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K2 & Broad Peak 2005
The Team: Chris Warner and Tao Franken are teaming up for
this ambitious double-header.
Chris Warner, the owner of Earth Treks, has been on ten 8000
meter peak expeditions. He has summited on Cho Oyu, Everest, Shisha Pangma and Lhotse. In 2002, he attempted both Broad
Peak and K2.
His second summit bid on Broad
Peak ended on an
avalanche prone 50 degree snow slope, just 150 feet from safer terrain. His
attempt on K2 ended in tragedy, as a friend
fell from thousands of feet above and landed 500 feet from Chris and his
partner. The first on the scene, Chris and his climbing partner, pronounced him
dead. Chris is anxious to complete a challenge begun three years ago.
Tao Franken is the owner of Bomber Gear, a high-end kayak
accessories business, and a mountaineering guide for Earth Treks. Tao has a
long and decorated past as a competitive adventure sports athlete (from Rodeo
Kayaking to BMX). Tao has an impressive ice climbing resume with numerous WI 5
and 6 solos. This will be Tao's first expedition to an 8000 meter peak. Chris
and Tao have been climbing together for nearly 20 years.
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